22 October 2007 at 10:30 pm
I’ve spent the last five weeks pretty much away from home - the Liberal Democrat, Labour and Conservative party conferences in various seaside towns (for work, obviously), a week on leave and a week working from Manchester. My incredibly out-of-date thoughts on the party conferences won’t, of course, be any longer of interest; suffice it to say that I was most disappointed that Cameron’s rebrand of the Conservative party has sounded the deathknell of the excellent shellfish bar that was an unlikely fixture in the Wintergardens during his party’s soujourns there in the past. A wholewheat muffin bar, though worthy, really wasn’t an adequate replacement, I thought.
Inbetween party conferences and a week working from Manchester, I did a spontaneous thing, and got on a plane to Istanbul. Isn’t it wonderful, and unimaginable, given that childhood holidays were booked through brochures, to be able to go online on a Tuesday and book a holiday leaving on the Wednesday?
Still, Istanbul took a little while to worm its way into my affections. Travelling by metro and tramvay to my hotel, I had reason to curse the poor signage of public transport, and the so-helpful men who held onto my elbow just a little longer than necessary when giving directions. In the dusk, I failed to spot the Haghia Sophia and Sultanahmet Mosque as we passed them, and my first evening, despite a lovely meal in a seventh-floor restaurant with views across the Golden Horn, was marred by constant harrassment, which I didn’t manage to shake off until back at my hotel.
Eventually, though, I began to give in to Istanbul. One evening, I was on the metro and an older woman got on and sat opposite me. She was eating a roll, and my eyes must have given away my surprise, as it seemed unlikely for her age and gender, to eat on the go. She broke off a piece of her roll to give to me, and as she did, I realised why: the sun had just gone down, and she was breaking her Ramadan fast, and offering me bread to break mine. I smiled no, but the man next to me accepted. The older woman’s roll eventually went five ways to other passengers.
I ate some really great food, pointing at the unfamiliar words in the menu to waiters who filled my plate with mezze and fresh fish. By far the best meal I had was standing in the port of the Asian shore, watching the hundreds of fishermen pull their lines out of the water with wriggling silver fish on the end, their sons selling them on to the men who owned the portable braziers. The super-fresh fish were gutted and slapped onto the grill, and two minutes later, for about eighty pence, were in a bread roll with onion and lettuce and lemon juice. Then there was time for tiny cups of Turkish tea, and sticky semolina treats, before riding the packed ferry back to Europe. Other culinary highlights included drinking salep, a thick hot creamy drink made from orchid roots sprinkled with cinnamon, in the gardens of the Sultanahmet Mosque.
My favourite part of the holiday, though, was visiting the Cagaloglu hammam, which I did twice. As you walk in, you are given the key to the ornate wooden cubicle with frosted glass windows, mirror, shelf and day bed. You wrap the tartan fringed shawl around yourself, slip on some sandals, and walk through to the main steam room, with basins around the edge and a hot marble slab in the centre. After a preliminary dousing with warm water, one of the enormous women masseuses beckons, and you lie down to be soaped, scraped and pummelled, and then have your hair washed. In a blissful state, wrapped in big fluffy towels, you eat Turkish delight and sip coffee in the anteroom. Both times I took more than three hours over the whole process. Utterly delightful.
In fact, in the end I liked Istanbul so much that I misread my tickets, and missed my flight home, earning me another four hours with Byzantine art, terrrible traffic and thick bitter coffee. Marvellous.